Burgundy 2011 Day Three: Whites and more Côtes de Nuits

Day three of our 2011 Burgundy tasting week and the brief was simple though very different for each team: whilst Adrian, Edwina, Lucy & Will would get under the skin of the 2011 Chardonnays up and down the Côte de Beaune, Al, Kat, Nick and I would have to tough it out and taste (mostly) reds at some of the Côte de Nuits’ most hallowed addresses. Clichés revolving around tough jobs having to be done notwithstanding, we set out with our usual professional veneer and child-on-Christmas-day excitement in our hearts.

Lay & Wheeler Burgundy TastingHaving tasted at Patrick Javillier & Michel Bouzereau in Meursault, Hubert Lamy in St Aubin, Jean-Marc Pillot, Fontaine-Gagnard in Chassagne and Philippe Chavy in Puligny, L’Equipe de dégustation des Blancs started getting their heads around the vintage and found the wines very easy to taste, showing plenty of fragrance and elegance. The general style is very classic and the wines are endowed with decent amounts of fruit and plenty of freshness and energy. The wines of Michel Bouzereau were tasting particularly well today and are deserving of a special mention.

Meanwhile, in Gevrey-Chambertin, our morning started pretty well with tasting at Domaine Armand Rousseau. Needless to say that the wines were absolutely fabulous, very classical and with excellent structure. Not many domaines would show well after such an amazing collection of Grand Crus, however Domaine Ponsot was one of the only addresses where there were even more on show! Laurent’s fascinating stories and theories made the tasting very enjoyable as always, and Clos St Denis Très vieilles vignes (planted in 1905!) was in my humble opinion the wine that showed best today. The other highlights of our day, besides the lunchtime beef cheeks at Chez Guy in Gevrey, were the purity of Rossignol-Trapet’s wines (and an absolutely fabulous 2001 Latricières), and a great visit at the very lovely and gregarious Louis Boillot and Ghislaine Barthod. Their wines were simply excellent and we look forward to more tomorrow!

Ludovic Surina

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