Pomerol Dinner with Moueix at The Zetter Townhouse

We were thrilled to welcome our customers and Edouard Moueix to dinner at London’s Zetter Townhouse last week. A glass of Vilmart’s 2001 Coeur de Cuvée Champagne sharpened our palates and whetted our appetite for the evening ahead. Edouard’s introductory comments on how JP Moueix is a young company (he’s ‘only’ third generation) and how they are merely “poor farmers” in Pomerol set the tone for an informative, humorous and engaging dinner.

The snails came first: mauricette snails and meatballs with royale de champignon sauvage which was paired with 2005 & 2003 Certan de May. The 2005 was compact, with a glossy texture of red berry fruit which made it accessible, yet with its best years still at least half a decade away. The 2003 in contrast was much more expansive and broadly-framed by grainy tannin. An opening contrast between the heat of 2003 and the drought of 2005.

A comparison of 2003 La Fleur Pétrus and 2003 Hosanna accompanied beef daube provençal with mashed potato. The Hosanna had a fabulous intense aroma of essence-like black fruits. The palate was rich, multilayered and delicious. The La Fleur Pétrus was lithe and fresher in comparison and not as flagrantly showy as the Hosanna, favouring subtlety and nuance for its style.

A pair of English cheeses was selected to match 2005 Hosanna and 2005 La Fleur Pétrus. Both 2005s were thrilling and affirmed, yet again, what a great vintage 2005 is. Hosanna was impressive: it was deep, dense and seductively textured with an underlying minerality and freshness. La Fleur Pétrus combined weight and concentration with poise, elegance and finesse. As with the 2003, it was not as showy and opulent as the Hosanna, but the one I would choose to be drinking in ten years’ time.

After six red wines, the chilled, sweet Château Coutet 2001 was just the thing to lift and freshen the palate. It was intensely aromatic with notes of blossom, honey and peach, whilst the palate was richly complex, delineated, ethereal and vibrant. It paired well with the iced lime parfait and strawberry compote.

Edouard closed the evening by noting that he had not made any reference to any vineyard or winemaking techniques: “too dull, not interesting”. He continued by passionately espousing his belief that these wines are for drinking, for enjoying, for sharing, and all thirty people in the room had done just that. Thank you Edouard for a superb evening!

Adrian Heaven

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