2010 Bordeaux release: Jonathan Maltus’ single vineyard wines

Recognised worldwide as one the top garagistes winemakers in St Emilion, Jonathan Maltus bought Château Teyssier in 1994 and put it on the wine map very quickly, mainly by investing in the winemaking technology he found in theNew World, building two brand new wineries. He continued buying neighbouring parcels of vines, producing single vineyard wines when he felt the terroir was superior, as is the case for his top bottlings Le Dôme, Les Asteries and Le Carré. These wines have reached cult status and are not only hugely individual but also show fabulous quality. 2010 is a Cabernet year, and Le Dôme’s blend is dominated by Cabernet Franc (as is Cheval-Blanc) and performed exceptionally well in this vintage.
Finally we are offering Vieux Château Mazerat, which Maltus acquired a few years back, declaring at the time that “The vineyard is beautiful, and I believe the potential is there to make as good a wine as our neighbours’.” (Châteaux Angélus and Beauséjour-Duffau-Lagarosse).

2010 Vieux Château Mazerat, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
£225/6

Somewhat ungiving on the nose, with savoury, mineral and complex notes coming through with time in the glass. On the palate, the oak-driven spice melds with dark berry fruit characters and savoury mocha notes. A highly polished wine, with dense, fine tannins and a glossy finish. “From a tiny parcel of old vines east of the more well-known Angelus estate, near Beausejour-Duffau, Jonathan Maltus produces this limited production blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. The dense purple-hued 2010 possesses a crisp bouquet of blue, red and black fruits, crushed rocks, spring flowers and background oak. Full-bodied, powerful and dense, it is no doubt meant for long-term cellaring, so forget it for 2-3 years and drink it over the following two decades.” 92-94 Points, Robert Parker

2010 Le Carré, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
£270/6

More reserved on the nose than the Astéries, the palate is also structurally bold, with dense tannins and oak characters coming through. Rich hedgerow fruit notes are balanced by a linear minerality, which gives this wine a real sense of drive and freshness. The finish is long, with notes of pure cassis fruit and a touch of oak spice.“Much of La Carre’s tiny production (a total of 300 or so cases) comes from high class real estate near Chateau Canon and Clos Fourtet on the limestone plateau and hillsides of St.-Emilion. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc aged in 80% new oak, the 2010 exhibits a dense purple color, abundant black fruit characteristics, undeniable sucrosity, a big, juicy texture, beautiful purity and a long finish with the oak present, but subtle. “92-94 Points, Robert Parker

2010 Les Astéries, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
£369/6

Notes of spice and violet on the nose make this an enticing and attractive prospect. The palate is structurally austere, with well-defined tannins and an elegant acidity that lends both freshness and backbone. There is however good concentration and depth of fruit, with dark berry notes and a swathe of creamy oak. Long on the finish, this is a highly impressive wine. “Another tiny production offering from proprietor Jonathan Maltus, this blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is produced from a single vineyard situated near La Carre. The 2010 reveals notes of powdered rock as well as red and black fruits, moderately high tannin, good acidity and a fresh, lively, medium to full-bodied personality.”  91-94 Points, Robert Parker

2010 Le Dôme, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
£498 per 6 bottles in bond
Instantly appealing on the nose, this has notes of black fruit, spice and dark chocolate. The palate is concentrated, dense and glossy, with fragrant dark berry fruit and a subtle florality. Modern in style, but highly attractive, with a firm tannic framework provided for the soft fruit character. The characteristic freshness of the vintage comes through on the finish, giving this full-bodied wine a real sense of grace and poise. Extraordinary. “This 1,000-case cuvee is always a candidate for having the highest percentage of Cabernet Franc (80%) of any wine from Bordeaux. The balance is Merlot. A magical wine, the dense purple-colored 2010 exhibits notes of incense, camphor, blueberries, blackberries and spring flowers. With sweet tannin, medium to full body and the high percentage of Cabernet Franc, it should put on additional weight and provide plenty of pleasure over 10-15 years. It is a stunning example of what heights Cabernet Franc can achieve in St.-Emilion.” 94-96, Robert Parker

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