Haut-Brion and other thoughts

Another beautiful day in Bordeaux, the vines are already a week ahead of normal and this warm, sunny weather is set to continue for another 10 days. Difficult to leave behind but this is a tiring vintage to taste and we’re all looking forward to some vegetables and our families!

We spent yesterday on the right bank starting at Cheval Blanc (not for the faint hearted this year) and finishing with the glittering stars of Pomerol. Harvest date and gentle extractions are the keys to a balanced wine in 2010, we have seen this over and over again. St Emilion was the usual rollercoaster with some wines north of 15% alcohol with dry tannins – there is undoubtedly a market for this ‘style’ but we will only buy to order. As on the left bank there were some wines which should represent real value for money which were concentrated and fresh and should keep very well. At the generic St Emilion tasting Berliquet had real poise, Beauséjour-Bécot pure class and Figeac have made the most of their great terroir and Cabernet Sauvignon again.

As ever Pomerol was more consistent with some standout wines. The JP Moeuix wines were powerful yet refined with more acidity than last year. Edouard suggested that we will argue for 40 years as to which is best, 2009 or 2010? He also suggested that this is not a vintage to necessarily fit Robert Parker’s taste, as the tannins and acidity are too high; unfortunately his marks will have a bearing on price and demand. In the afternoon we tasted l’Eglise-Clinet, VCC, Petrus, Le Pin and l’Evangile. Alexandre Thienpoint of VCC stated he had heard talk that this was a Cabernet Franc vintage on the right bank but he didn’t use his old vine Cab Franc and instead has produced a sensational wine dominated by Merlot. Some of his tanks had IPT (technical term for tannin) of 105, Latour was 84! Le Pin was picked early just after the September rains, Petrus was superb, much better balance than last year. This is one of the best afternoons it is possible to have tasting wine and we enjoyed our cold Heineken by the lake at Château Méaume.

This morning we tasted the Haut Brion stable in the Orangerie with Prince Robert and M. Delmas who said that this year the reds have record levels of almost everything. They certainly were impressive. Clarence was very good but the white stole the show, I can still taste Haut-Brion Blanc in the departure lounge.

Nick Dagley

Posted with WordPress for BlackBerry.

Post a Comment

Required fields are marked *


%d bloggers like this: